DIY GoPro Steadicam Version 2: Step-By-Step Build How-To

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Autore: God's Country

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Several people have asked that I do a detailed write up on version two of my steadicam. So here it is! Please read this full description for a detailed parts list. Parts for this build can be purchased here: http://www.buygoproparts.com/ Parts List: - Main frame made out of a 1 1/4" x 1/8" x 3' aluminum bar. I bought this at Lowes. I bent the aluminum bar around an air tank that was 7" in diameter. - The flat part of the frame is 4 3/4" long. The rest of the frame (the curve and all the way to the end) is about 15". It's tough to measure the curve. The bottom weight is at the very end of the frame. The front weight is about 8 1/2" up from the bottom of the frame. The top/rear weight hole is drilled about a 1/2" from the back of the frame. Hole for the camera mount is about 1.3" forward of the rear/top weight hole. The hole for the grip/handle is about 2" in front of the camera mount hole. - Fender washers for counter weights - My rig has a total of 18 fender washers. 10 behind the camera, 4 in front of the "bow", and 4 on the bottom of the "bow". I do not know the official size of these but the outside diameter of them is around 1.25" - GoPro tripod mount - 1/4"-20 threaded bolt to attach the GoPro tri-pod adapter. - Two GoPro pivot/mounting arms - I used two short arms. These allow you to move the camera up, down, backwards, forwards. - Traxxas Stub axle/Half shaft for a T-Maxx 2.5 (possibly part number 4953x): and Traxxas short Half Shafts for T-Maxx 2.5 (possibly part number 4949x). Also Traxxas flanged nylon locking nut (probably part number 5147x). To avoid buying more than you need, check buygoproparts.com . - One 5/16-18 x 1" long bolt goes through the frame of the steadicam and screws into the Traxxas stub axle/half shaft. The Traxxas part is not threaded but the bolt will thread the plastic the first time you screw it in. When I take mine apart and put it back together I always start threading the bolt by hand so I don't cross thread the plastic. - Two 6x22x7 bearings - The inside diameter is a great fit on the Traxxas stub axle/half shaft and the outside diameter is slightly undersized compared to the CPVC coupler. Wrap a few layers of clear packing tape around the outside of the bearing and it will fit tightly - 3/4" CPVC coupler - CPVC is NOT the same as regular PVC pipe. It usually has a slight yellow or brown color to it. - 3/4" CPVC pipe - Roughly 4-6" long depending on how long your bicycle grip is. - Bicycle grip - You should be able to get these at lots of stores. Foam grips are usually really inexpensive. I like and used a lock-on style because I already had it they are easy to install and remove. - Bicycle grip cap - This part is not needed but it caps off the bottom of the grip and makes it look a little better. - Misc. nuts and bolts to tie everything together. Here is some demonstration footage of the steadicam: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__gYNCp-miQ and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__gYNCp-miQ LET'S CONNECT! God's Country's Accounts: - http://gplus.to/GodsCountry - http://www.facebook.com/godscountrychannel - http://twitter.com/In_Gods_Country

Commenti

I would have liked to see it completely assembled and in your hand, just to see the balance and motion of it.

Hi, did you bend the curve part around the tank first and then bend the straight ends? Was it easier to bend the straight ends and then get the radius afterward? Thank you.

Do you see any downside to having the camera straight above the Trax piece using a male to male adapter?

Did you look atusing a mini ballhead instead of a universal joint? What advantage does the universal joint have over a ball head? I think this would be cheaper and also just as smooth.

Hello, I want to make your steadicam but I can't buy traxxas in my country. I thinked about something like that http://screenshot.sh/n8elLAD8mSQCn Do u think that's will be ok or traxxas is better?

This will help a lot! If you have them, could you tell me the weight of the three groups of washers, so I can make sure I have it all balanced out? Thank you!

great tutorial!! looks pretty neat!! Do you sell on Ebay of Amazon?

Great instructional video, this should also work for the small Hero 4 Session, I take it the rear weights are what would be used to balance out the lighter camera.

I have decided to try this build, as it seems the best throughout, compared to the other DIY versions. I got a few things I wanted to clear up before building one, tho.
Does the curvature matter, or the point is really to just get the weight directly under the camera to get the best center of mass?
also, Does the width between the hangle hole and the tripod mount screw hole matter, or the goal is just to get the camera exactly above the handle, for center of mass again?

Pretty much just interested if the sizes and lengths matter greatly or as it looks to me, you just have to get the best center of gravity to hold the camera steady

All in all, your build is well designed! Great work :)

nice video! Im About to build myself a steadycam too. could you maybe copy your steadicams form with the exact positions of each hole to a piece of paper and put In your description Or just Auswer my comment and give me a link where i can download it? ?

A very good video presentation. Your version of an already proven design is compact clean and uncluttered like many submitted lately. I would like you young people to use that fresh mind and progress beyond presently accepted concepts. All the designs of
recent fall short of true shock stabilization and rely heavily on software to correct
inherent design shortcomings to clean up demonstration videos. I have faith that you young people with fresh minds can excel beyond contemporary thought and progress beyond current limits and quit walking like a monkey while trying to promote better image
stabilization and give your total attention to subject capture.

I used this design to build my own steadicam. After tweeking the counter weights it performs amazingly well. Better than I anticipated for something home made. If you are an amateur GoPro user, this is a great alternative to purchasing a manufactured steadicam. Below is comparison footage of my GoPro on a GoPole and then on my steadicam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHjxNYO3jeE

Thanks +God's Country for all the awesome DIY's and other cool videos.

quick question why do you use bearings at all, Because then you can,t direct the camera to the angle left or right wise that u want it will just always freely move great video though

très bon tutoriel bravo

exellente video. si c'est possible de mettre un sous titre rapide en francais avec les mesures en francais. merci

How bout just get a HUGE PVC pipe and cut it into half and make it thin?Would it work the same?

Great video with some fantastic narration. On the mechanics of it, why do you have a front weight? Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but the two back weights should be in a direct vertical line, and the main weight of the camera should be directly above the pivot point of the handle, correct?

Awesome video - really appreciate you taking the time to help us be able to make one!

You were saying during the demo video that there is a slight "sway" to the rig itself, albeit a very smooth sway, but I was wondering if I used a heavier piece of metal than the aluminum do you suppose it would help with that small issue or no? I'm thinking in terms of a windy day, I would assume a slightly overall heavier rig would be a little easier to keep it from swaying but I don't know I could be totally off. I might just build 2 since the aluminum would be much nicer and easier to carry around lol. Thanks again man!

I for the love can not build the joint, why didn't you show how to put it together in your video?? It's the hardest part..

Why do you use 2 bearings? Stability? Thanks!